February 5, 2010

February 3rd, 2010
Yesterday, I drove the Road to Perdition. This 2 hour drive from Kisumu to Busia fell victim to civil war in 2007 due to alleged voter fraud by the current president. Along this 2 lane road (four if you include the dirt paths on the side that are sometimes better than the road itself), you drive through shanty towns, abundant wood smoke from campfires, pollution from poorly maintained motorcycles, fuel trucks and ancient cars that are sometimes a collector’s dream. The limited sources of water are dirty, stagnant and overused. It is truly apocalyptic. Periodic checkpoints with spiked tire busters along the way are manned by police who supplement their meager pay with donations from foreigners. It is common practice when stopped and questioned to nonchalantly drop a few hundred Kenyan Shillings (about $3)on the ground. You will be allowed to pass. I have been asked how I have handled these situations in the past. Considering that a very high percentage of my paycheck goes to the U.S. government and highway tolls, I consider that a few dollars here and there in Kenya is a pretty fair deal. In fact, if you do the math, I do much better percentagewise toward the government in Kenya than I do in the U.S.
This morning’s breakfast consisted of dried figs, dried cashews, champati (bread made from yams), and the finest coffee I’ve ever tasted. The local Kenyan coffee is by far the highlight of my adventure so far. The coffee is so delicious that I seldom use sugar and never use milk. Food and personal safety must be ever present on your mind when traveling Kenya. My normal routine when backpacking is to eat only dried fruits, bread and nuts, hot coffee (taking a risk with the cup but what the hell), and deep fried meats. As I become more familiar with what is by reputation a safe establishment to dine, I expand my choices.
I spent the last 2 days in Nairobi before making this trip. Although I have not seen enough of Nairobi to form any meaningful conclusions, I can say with confidence that the Kenyan people, despite corruption and rampant poverty, dress to impress, hold their heads high and look you in the eye. This indomitable will engenders respect from me and I take every opportunity to thank the locals for their hospitality. The Kenyans are warm and friendly.
I am a stranger in a strange land. Last night I was awoken many times to bizarre sounds at various times of the night. I awoke at 2AM to something that sounded like a pack of wild hyenas. Then I realized that it WAS a pack of wild hyenas. At 4AM, very large and unknown insect threw itself over and over against my window. At 5AM the muslim call to prayer began. Shockingly, I seemed to sleep very well. I find that these challenges stimulate my soul and satisfy me on a level I had forgotten. The room is humid and stuffy and I sleep under mosquito netting. I am typing on my computer with a Swahili Gideon’s bible wedged under one rickety leg lending stability to my otherwise wayward and rambling table and tale. These books are great because they adjust to any height necessary to compensate for a legs shortcoming. I found the book of Ephesians to be just right. It is very much like many hostels I have stayed in but compared with the local standards, it is luxury.
Will be meeting the NGO team (Innovations in Poverty Action) in a few hours. The device that I will design will save the lives of 250,000 children a year when fully initiated. I do not consider myself a humanitarian. I am doing this project for my own reasons. However, I cannot help but be moved with the resiliency of the locals to these conditions and am happy if my skills can ease their suffering. I have been accused many time of believing in nothing but I like to think that when I see suffering, I do what I can to alleviate it. I believe that wonder is the only true religion. Wonder is a religion practiced with humility and an understanding of just how small and insignificant our brief lives and grand viewpoints really are.